This is going to be a monster of a post because Semana Santa
was a monster of a week, so bear with me as I use stupid phrases like “monster
of a”.
In the interest of
saving money and also getting a tan while still doing some really neat stuff,
we three musketeers headed off to Portugal for Semana Santa (Spanish for
“spring break,” but not literally).
The trip began rather memorably, as we left Mari’s (Mari’s
specialty of tinfoil-wrapped sandwiches in tow) with what we thought was plenty
of time, only to be sprinting through the train station an hour later, massive
duffels bouncing, Laura’s stupid rolly bag making stupid rolly bag noises. Anyway,
the point is, we made it onto the night train to Lisbon, which would be more
aptly named “hell”. Apparently when you pay only 45 euros to roll across the
border for some nine hours, you are not granted the luxury of actually
sleeping. If for some reason you think that you, a mere peasant, deserve a
little shut-eye, a policeman or border control chump will literally shake you
by the shoulders and demand you show him your ticket for the fourth time. Don’t
even get me started on the lights-on-at-all-times situation.
Somehow we survived and managed to be in good spirits when
we arrived at 8 in the morning, despite our collective sum of negative three
hours of sleep (and also unwashed hair, but I’m still a little scarred from
that), which was good considering that we weren’t able to check into our hostel
until 1 PM. No pasa nada. We threw
back some coffee and set off to explore Lisbon for the second time this
semester. Two important things to note are that Laura stopped and took a
picture of virtually every tile in the city (while announcing that I would
thank her for this some day, though I’m still not sure what use I would ever
have for three hundred pictures of tiles) and that we managed to find a
particular shop we wanted to visit without asking directions AND without
getting lost and that alone made up for the hellish night train trip. (I’m just
kidding. Nothing would make up for that hellish night train trip.)
The only reason Mal is smiling because this is one of the first times Laura stopped to take a picture of a tile. |
Later in the day, all clean and rested, we had one of our
worst lunches this semester and then we had one of our best dinners this
semester and we took it all in stride, if I do say so myself. That night, we
revisited Lisbon’s lively Bairro Alto (I butcher both the pronunciation and
spelling of this name incessantly) and took like, hundreds of pictures in front
of the same wall with a bunch of strangers…... probably one of those “you had to
be there” moments that ultimately make everyone feel sufficiently awkward after
the story is told. But hey, it was funny.
You had to be there? |
On Sunday, we once more impressed ourselves with our savvy
travel skills (I’m allowed to brag about the few moments that actually work out
in our favor) and got on a walking-speed train to the little town of CasCais,
once again for the second time. It was a beautiful day and our hearts were set
on some free biking. Naturally, there were only two free bikes available, but
the woman working the rentals took pity on three clueless American girls and,
even though it was against policy, promised to save the two for us until a
third came along (which was a relief because when I was younger my sister would
always beg me ride to my bike next to her while she ran and I was hoping to
avoid such a situation for the rest of my life). Inevitably, three different
groups of people also wanted the bikes and were understandably furious that
these tourists with their white socks and tennis shoes (okay that was just me)
would get preferential treatment but hey, you guys, we WERE there first. So
after suffering some verbal abuse of the Portuguese variety, we finally got to
ride our neat free bikes on some extremely busy cobblestone sidewalks. As we
basically walked our bike behind massive clumps of people, we reminded
ourselves to always be careful what you wish for. (En realidad, the views were
gorgeous, biking is fun, and we had some good laughs, so all’s well that ends
well.) (How many more clichés should I try to throw into that paragraph?)
After our bike ride, we allowed ourselves to get ice cream
(though it took a lot of convincing, trust me) from the famous Santini and then
sat on the beach and watched a teenage couple engage in some serious PDA while
a stray cat watched. (Excuse me for the PG-rated content but the whole situation
needs to be addressed.)
The following day, we embarked on our second We Hate Tourism
tour (are you sensing a pattern here?), this time with the dreamy Tiago and
this time to the coast of Portugal instead of around Lisbon. After a long drive
during which Mal napped and I interrogated Tiago about his love life, and a pit
stop for coffee (so unlike us, I know), we stopped for lunch with a gorgeous
view of Praia de Amoreira (that’s Portuguese for “amazing beach”… haha, no it’s
not). Also, there was a dog there and we shamelessly fed him some scraps and
Mal and I shamelessly tried to kidnap said dog, so lunch was a nice affair.
Every single time we saw cliffs like this I exclaimed, "Cliffs of Moher!" and every single time nobody laughed. |
We then headed to the teeny town of Aljezur where we would
be staying for the night. We went to another beach, this time to lay out while
we watched some dogs run around and Tiago surf, so overall it was a pretty
perfect experience. Afterward, Tiago took us to the grocery store to get
ingredients for the meal we were supposed to collectively make for dinner
(read: we followed Tiago around the grocery store while he shopped and then we
played cards in the lobby while he made us dinner). Dinner was delicious and
that’s all I’ll say about it because I think I talk about food a little more
often than the average person.
The next day, we were headed out for our final destination
of Lagos, but not without a few pitstops on the way. We took in some more
beautiful sights of cliffs, beaches, and boys surfing. We also visited the
southernmost point of Europe (Sagres… pronunciation guide not available) where
we took some extremely lame pictures, as we are wont to do. (Pictured below.)
Alas, we finally reached the beach town of Lagos, Portugal
and said an emotional goodbye to Tiago (though whether those were tears of
happiness or sadness in his eyes is hard to say). At twelve euro a night, our
rented apartment was pretty luxurious (though notably a little muggy, but
personally I love it when my towels are consistently damp) and it was nice to
be able to showcase our dance skillz to American pop songs without being
judged. To celebrate our adult-like vacation, we decided to cook for ourselves
that night. Mostly Mal played sous-chef to Laura while I moaned and groaned
about forgetting to buy raisins and then threw some fruit and sugar into our
boxed wine to cover up the horrendous taste. The rice dish was delicious except
that we forgot salt (and raisins!!!!) and also had enough leftovers to feed the
entire apartment complex. Being a grown-up is fun!
On Wednesday morning, I went on an innocent run to check out
the city center and ended up getting terrifically lost and asking for
directions on three separate occasions, only to find out I was a street away
from our apartment. Remember when I said I was travel savvy? Me neither.
Anyway, the weather was looking a little gloomy, which in turn made us feel a
little gloomy, plus we had to somehow navigate our way back to the elusive city
center in order to buy our bus tickets back to Lisbon at the end of the trip…
blah blah blah, the clouds cleared by lunch time and so did our attitudes. (How
about these weather analogies, huh guys?!) We threw on our suits and
sprint-walked to the beach where we accidentally discovered the nudie area a
few seconds after we had already set up camp. Chalk it up to cultural
experience, I guess.
Life is soooooooooo hard sometimes. |
For dinner, we returned to the city center to a
TripAdvisor-recommended restaurant where we caught the attention (not hard,
considering we optimistic Midwesterners were all wearing shorts despite the 50
degree temps) of an older British couple. Although they had initially asked us
which states we are respectively from, at one point the older man asked us if
we were sisters and then remarked, “Oh, no, you all live in different states!
Unless maybe your dad has a really good car!” Needless to say, we asked them to
adopt us. (Jokes jokes jokes. Maybe.)
On Thursday we were #blessed with perfect weather so we
marched our already sunburnt selves to Praia Dona Ana, AKA Conde Nast’s #1 Most
Beautiful Beach in the World. Dude knows what he’s talking about, because it
was breathtaking. Plus there were free public restrooms. Also, did you guys
know that Laura had never laid out on a real live beach before this vacation?
Neither did Mal and me. Anyway, some American (read: loud) boys were playing on
some of the massive rocks surrounding the beach, so we followed suit and played
on some little pebbles. (Pictured below.)
Risk-takers. |
That afternoon, Mal demonstrated her good SLU character and
worked on some homework while Laura and I looked for a beach that actually
didn’t exist. After dropping my water bottle down a rocky mountain and having
Laura belay me down in order to retrieve it, we returned to the first beach and
impressed all the other beach-goers with our mad paddle-ball skills. (Whether
or not you think I’m being sarcastic is up to you, but keep in mind that underneath
all that clumsiness and gracelessness is some serious athleticism.) For dinner,
we ate at a groovy little restaurant called The Garden, complete with hammocks
and free blankets and one cat. We enjoyed our dinner with a little free
entertainment via the VERY rowdy group of Irish men who seemed to multiply as
the night went on. Things would have gone a little more smoothly for them if
they hadn’t decided to start wrestling on the patio, if one of them hadn’t
tried to use the women’s restroom, and if they hadn’t ALL decided to
individually apologize to us. Other notable mentions of that night were some
broken darts and a broken camera (only one of which was our fault, because who
knew Mal’s aim was so bad) (RIP Laura’s camera).
On Friday we gave Laura’s Irish skin a break from the beach
and went back to the city center in search of a kayak tour, only to discover
that kayak tours are reserved for people who have their lives together and
schedule things ahead of time. Instead we took a boat tour of some grottos,
which undoubtedly look a lot better from a boat than from a kayak. Plus Mal had
the pleasure of sitting next to a German guy who (correctly) thought that she
was German and (incorrectly) thought that she spoke fluent German. Fortunately,
she’s mastered pretending to know what people are saying. After the trip, we
ate some ice cream for only the second time of the trip (a new record for me,
surely) and all was right in the world again. Before dinner that night, Laura
insisted that we watch the sunset at a famous viewpoint (for reference, you
should check out her San Sebastian blog post). Even though it was cloudy and
cold and windy, Mal and I didn’t get mad at her because we met some friendly
guys including the Portuguese version of Alexander Supertramp and his dog along
the road to the viewpoint. The sunset eluded us, but I bet it was beautiful
behind all that wind and all those clouds.
(I’m trying to wrap it up guys, I promise.)
Great idea, Laur. |
Bright and early on Saturday morning, we wrung out our
towels some more and packed up and headed out to take the bus back to Lisbon.
As luck would have it, our bus was host to an entire fraternity from an
American university that will remain nameless and let me tell you guys, they
were COOL. Something we really enjoy doing is being trapped seated near
some twenty-year-old guys make derogatory comments about women for four hours
so we sure had the time of our lives.
Eventually, we were back home in Lisbon where we were
homeless until our next hellish trip on the night train. Although we had to sit
with our luggage for a good seven hours, we had no problem entertaining
ourselves. The only bummer of that span of time was that, despite our sign, no
one would let us watch their dog in exchange for ice cream. It’s alright though,
because we got ice cream anyway. Special occasion, ya know?
Would've taken up our offer if he had a dog, I bet. |
Ultimately, the night train ride back was not nearly as bad
as the way there so I’ll stop railing on night trains now.
Ahhh… the end of this monster of a post. Truly thought it
would never come. I hope I didn’t make the trip sound all that negative because
it was actually close to perfection (in that non-perfect sort of way). We
shared stories, sunshine, sangria, love, laughter, lip balm… I could go on.
Also I ate an entire mini jar of peanut butter in three days, but I digress. As
I can already see your cringing face, I’ll just say that I couldn’t have asked
for two better travel companions. Saudo!